If you are looking for snow in Japan, but can’t be arsed to fly to Hokkaido then Yuzawa and Niigata are pretty much your options. Whether it is actually worth visiting Yuzawa though will depend greatly on your patience and if you mind sharing the town with hordes of Chinese tourists.
Table of Contents
What the Yuzawa?
Yuzawa, properly known as Echigo Yuzawa, is a small onsen and ski town in Niigata Prefecture with a population of roughly 8000 people. It became famous during the Japanese bubble era when ski tourism exploded and Tokyo residents wanted easy access to serious snow without heading all the way to Hokkaido.
The town sits in a narrow mountain valley and gets massive snowfall every winter, often several metres over the season. During the 1980s and 1990s it boomed with hotels, resorts and apartment blocks going up everywhere.
When the bubble burst many of those buildings remained, which explains the slightly faded and half empty look in places. Outside ski season it feels quiet, rural and very much like a town waiting for winter to return.
The Yuzawa Vibe
On arrival Yuzawa does exactly what it says on the tin, it is a small quaint little Japanese town with mountains, cool little streets and what feels like an old time vibe. It is also clearly built for tourists with most of the hotels and restaurants being right next to the train station, which is on the JR line.
On further exploration though you get a feel more for what it is. Basically everyone in the hotels and shops speaks Chinese, which all the tourists are. There are also a lot of run down and empty buildings and shops, perhaps testament to current China Japan relations.
What to do in Yuzawa?
You come to Yuzawa for one reason and one reason only, to ski or snowboard. This is not a cultural city break. It is a snow town.
Gala Yuzawa Snow Resort is the most convenient option in the country. You step off the Joetsu Shinkansen and you are basically at the gondola. It is built for Tokyo day trippers. Decent runs, rental gear on site, restaurants inside, very smooth operation. If you want easy snow without thinking too hard, this is it.
Naeba Ski Resort is bigger and feels more like a proper ski destination. It has longer runs, better views and is linked to Kagura via the Dragondola, which is one of the longest gondolas in Japan. It is more spread out and feels less like a station add on.
Kagura Ski Resort sits higher up and gets better powder. It attracts more serious skiers and snowboarders and usually has a longer operating season. If you actually care about snow quality, this is the better bet.
Iwappara Ski Resort is more beginner friendly with wide open slopes and ski schools. It is less intense and works well for families or first timers.
Gala Yuzawa Snow Resort
742 Yuzawa, Yuzawa machi, Minamiuonuma gun, Niigata 949 6101
Naeba Ski Resort
202 Mikuni, Yuzawa machi, Minamiuonuma gun, Niigata 949 6292
Kagura Ski Resort
Mitsumata, Yuzawa machi, Minamiuonuma gun, Niigata 949 6211
Iwappara Ski Resort
731 79 Tsuchidaru, Yuzawa machi, Minamiuonuma gun, Niigata 949 6103
If you are not skiing then your options are limited. There are a few onsen you can use for day baths, short snow walks around town and the sake tasting area inside the station. Beyond that you are mainly killing time until dinner.
Eating and drinking in Yuzawa
There is a great big high street with restaurants galore, not to mention the hotels that sell overpriced buffets. This though does not mean there is much to eat in Yuzawa. In fact every restaurant is full, or demands a long line due to the Chinese tourists.
And it is because of said tourists that meals are more of the Chinese than Japanese variety. During the day this is even more profound with literally nothing open bar the Cat Cafe. Oh and even the 7 11 is rammed.
5 Restaurants in Yuzawa that are OK
Yokaku Bar
Proper little bar vibe with solid drinks and simple food. It feels like an actual drinking spot rather than a ski cafeteria. One of the few places where you can sit, relax and not feel rushed.
Yuzawa Katakuri
Small local joint near the station serving decent soba and tempura. Simple Japanese comfort food done properly without too much fuss.
Ajidokoro Shokudo Ninjintei
Casual izakaya style restaurant with grilled fish, rice sets and local Niigata sake. Gets busy early so timing matters.
Restaurant Alpina at Naeba
Classic ski lodge food. Curry rice, katsu, beer and warmth. Overpriced but dependable when you are stuck on the mountain.
The Cat Cafe near Echigo Yuzawa Station
Coffee, cake and cats. During the day it can feel like the only place not completely overrun. Oh and they got cats.
Is it worth visiting Yuzawa?
OK, so I loved that I could escape Tokyo and see some snow, but as someone who is not skiing or snowboarding it somewhat lacked that much to do rather than throw snowballs. I not only threw small balls, but also made yellow snow.
There is also the fact that honestly it felt a bit too much like a Chinese version of Japan, and while said Chinese guests were better behaved than your average bear, it was a bit too sanitized for my liking.
If you ski or snowboard then yes, it is absolutely worth visiting Yuzawa. If you do not, then one night is probably enough just to tick the snow box and get back to somewhere with a bit more soul.
Getting there and away
The town is generally well situated an easy to get to and from Tokyo and beyond. Gotta love that JR pass – which I will write about later.
By shinkansen
From Tokyo Station take the Joetsu Shinkansen to Echigo Yuzawa Station. The journey takes about 75 to 90 minutes depending on the service and costs roughly 6500 to 7000 yen ($45-50) one way. Trains run at least once an hour and more frequently during ski season. You arrive directly in the centre of town.
By local JR train
From Niigata City you can take local JR services which take around two hours. This is cheaper than the bullet train but slower and less convenient with luggage. This is about 2500-300 yen ($20), or free if you got the JR Pass.
By bus
Highway buses run from Ikebukuro and other parts of Tokyo during ski season. The trip takes around three to four hours depending on traffic and weather and costs between 3000 and 5000 yen ($20-35)
By car
Driving from Tokyo takes around two and a half to three hours depending on traffic and snow conditions. In winter you will need proper snow tyres or chains.
Click to check my Japan Tours with YPT that do not go to Yuzawa….