OK so while I have often said that Indonesian cuisine is shit there are still some regional gems out there as well as places that are not all that bad with Banda Aceh cuisine falling into the latter.
Why is this? Well there are a few factors such as the island location and what is available but more importantly its rich unique culture which from a Banda Acehnese cuisine point of view means some decent curries and fish dishes.
WTF is Banda Aceh?
Banda Aceh is the capital of Aceh Province sitting at the very tip of Sumatra and being famous for all the wrong reasons. First there was the brutal civil war with the GAM separatists then it was basically flattened by the 2004 tsunami and now it is mainly known for being the most conservative Islamic place in Indonesia. How conservative? Think women only beaches public floggings and the infamous Sharia police.
That being said it is also strangely beautiful. The people are friendly in a quiet sort of way the beaches are still amazing and there is a strange post conflict post disaster vibe that you either find depressing or fascinating. I obviously fall into the latter. Banda Aceh is also your jumping off point for Sabang and Pulau Weh and while Sabang has the diving and resorts Banda Aceh has the food (to an extent)
Banda Aceh Cuisine
So what makes Banda Aceh cuisine different to the rest of Indonesia? For one you have got a lot more Indian and Middle Eastern influence due to the history of Islamic traders that passed through this port town. The result is actual flavour. Think slow cooked beef curry spicy fish and proper dry sambals that do not taste like someone just dumped sugar and MSG on last night’s leftovers.
There is also less emphasis on fried crap and more on soupy coconut rich dishes though you will of course still see your standard fare of fried rice and noodles. The street food is still very much in the meh category but hit the right warung and you will find something worth writing about.
7 Must Try Foods in Banda Aceh
Counting down from 7 to 1 I present 7 of the best must try food in Banda Aceh dishes. As always with the best very much saved for last.
7. Mie Aceh
Might as well get the obvious one out of the way. Mie Aceh is basically their version of spicy fried noodles usually with beef or seafood plus a good hit of chili. The dry version is better than the soupy one. You will find this on every street corner and yes it is decent for noodles.
6. Sate Matang
Acehnese take on satay. These are usually beef skewers marinated with spices and grilled served with a kind of broth soup combo instead of peanut sauce. Nothing groundbreaking but solid when fresh.
5. Kuah Pliek U
One of the more unique Banda Acehnese dishes. This is a weird dark green curry made with fermented coconut leaves and vegetables and sometimes crab or fish if you are lucky. It tastes better than it looks and it is one of those things you only find here
4. Ayam Tangkap
Literally means caught chicken but no idea why. It is chunks of fried chicken buried under a mountain of fried curry leaves garlic and chili. Extremely satisfying when done right. Perfect with rice and sambal.
3. Sie Reuboh
Beef simmered in vinegar and spices until it basically melts in your mouth. This is Banda Aceh’s version of comfort food and it actually has some depth. It has that North Sumatran sourness going on which really helps break up all the oil and fat you will consume here.
2. Gulai Kambing
Goat curry done Banda Aceh style. Not too heavy not too sweet and surprisingly aromatic. It actually reminded me a bit of Yemeni food. Great with rice great with roti great any time of day.
1. Martabak Aceh
Yes I know you have had Martabak before but this is different. This is next level. Flaky pastry stuffed with spiced beef egg onions and sometimes cheese. Crispy outside soft inside and served with pickled chili and curry sauce. This was the one I went back for. Top tier snack.
Street Food Banda Aceh
I will keep this section very brief but for all intents and purposes the street food scene in Banda Aceh is very similar to that of Indonesia which is to say bad. That means you will find lots of Mi Goreng noodles and nasi goreng fried rice.
Being Muslim there is also a lot of overcooked chicken and fish on the BBQ. There are also fewer Western fusion dishes which is not that bad a thing. I will go into more detail about Banda Aceh street food later but this is your lot for now.
Can You Drink in Banda Aceh?
Technically you cannot drink in Banda Aceh with the top punishment as per Sharia Law being 100 lashes. And yes they do mete this out with one Christian lady getting 30 for selling booze.
Does this mean that getting booze is impossible? Well no it does not as this is after all Indonesia but with this being said is a cheap bottle of Bintang really worth the risk? Me thinks not.
If you really must bring your own and drink it in your hotel room with the lights off and the curtains drawn. Or better yet save the boozing for Sabang, where people seem to care less, or better still Jakarta or Bali.
Conclusion on Banda Aceh Cuisine
Not a place you will go hungry but hey if you are looking for cuisine go to Vietnam if you are looking for beaches go to the Philippines and if you need all of the above with a bit of company try Cambodia.
You visit Banda Aceh for all of the crazy shit with the cuisine just about being enough to keep hunger at bay.
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