Formerly the fastest growing city in China this coastal gem and gateway to paradise islands is actually a real gem in the rough and yes this very much includes the Street Food Beihai scene.
What do I mean by that? Well quite simply that I now honestly think that this might be one of the best cities in China for street food, particularly of seafood variety. This for me at least is a huge reason it is worth a visit.
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What the Beihai
I first visited Beihai five years ago, right as COVID was beginning to kick off. The city was eerily empty—streets that should have been bustling were quiet, the beaches nearly deserted, and even the famous seafood restaurants felt like ghost kitchens. It was a shame really, because at the time Beihai had just been crowned the fastest-growing city in China. There was a palpable buzz about it, even if most people had locked themselves indoors.
Fast forward to now and things have changed. Like many parts of China post-COVID, Beihai is showing signs of the boom-bust cycle. There’s no shortage of new apartment blocks, some eerily uninhabited, but nothing quite as post-apocalyptic as Kangbashi in Inner Mongolia. Still, Beihai has a charm that’s hard to ignore. The beaches, while lovely by China standards are not exactly the Philippines, or Cambodia, think more Camber Sands. It is though economies of scale and for many their chance to get to the seaside.
But the real surprise is the old town. A throwback to the European concessions era, it’s packed with crumbling colonial facades, quiet cafes, and that slow, nostalgic vibe that makes you want to stay longer than planned.
Street Food Beihai
So, what is the Street Food Beihai scene? Well quite frankly it is epic. This is largely because unlike places in the same province such as Gulin and Yangshuo Beihai street food is booking, rather than being dissuaded at all.
This means that while there are indeed street food areas in Beihai (which I shall be sharing) the genre is pretty much bloody everywhere, with the sights, sounds and smells of street grub hitting you before the sun has even set.
And this while still completely ignoring the absolute plethora of cheap seafood restaurants that are also all along the coast (there are expensive ones too obviously).
So, where should you eat Street Food in Beihai and what should you eat?
Where is the best Street Food Beihai destinations?
As stated there is quite literally street food everywhere you look in the city, but there are certainly a few areas that really stand out and for very different things.
Beibuwan Square
This place truly comes alive after dark! That is when the street food vendors take over about 300 meters or so of the street and cook up a BBQ storm.
Here we had some truly great squid (a rarity in China), muscles, oysters, meat stuffed with peppers (really) and a whole heap of other great stuff. And because it was a holiday most of the staff were teenagers, which was quite amusing.
There is also much more to the street with loads of people selling fresh juices, a big deal in Beihai, local jellies, which is another “thing” and the infamous cocktail cart! This is something I have rarely seen in China, save Nanning the provincial capital. Here I got to wolf down a decent Long Island Iced tea AND a bottle of knock-0ff Jager, can’t say better than that!
Location – At the intersection of Sichuan Road and Beibuwan Middle Road in Haicheng District, Beihai
Qiaogang Style Street (侨港风情街)
If you want to get your hands greasy and your taste buds fired up in Beihai, then Qiaogang Style Street is where the magic happens. Tucked away in Yinhai District, this isn’t your average sanitized food street. It’s chaos in the best way possible. As the sun drops, out come the grills, plastic stools, and hawkers shouting over the steam of their woks.
You’ll find everything from wok-fried clams to Vietnamese-style spring rolls, all cooked right in front of you and served with a side of noise and neon. The smell of charcoal and chili oil hits you before you even see the food. Once you’re in, there’s no going back. It’s street food how it should be. Fast, cheap, a little rough around the edges, and absolutely unforgettable.
Location – located in the Yinhai District of Beihai, Guangxi, China. Specifically, it is situated about 50 meters west of the OYO Haiqiao Holiday Hotel (Qiaogang Style Street Branch), on Qiaogang Style Street North Road
Beihai Old Street (北海老街)
I will later give this gem its own article, but it is essentially a European Treaty Port circa 1870’s architecture vibe that is now the top tourist area of Beihai. Street food wise there are great seafood restaurants by the sea just before you come into the old town, which has its own unique vibe.
Reminding me a little of Yangshuo this is the kinda place where the tourists flock during Chinese Holidays. And boy do they do street food. Chief among choices here would be the fish balls, with lobster being just $1.50 for 3 and a whole heap of other choices. These are heavily influenced by Guangdong cuisine another reason to like it here.
Next kinda in importance would be the whole weird dried Chinese fish shops. Yes from my tone you may have guessed these are not exactly my thing, but worth it for the photos if nothing else.
The cream on the bun though, pun thoroughly intended is the deserts here. Fruits are everywhere both fresh and styled with Beihai style desert shops making up almost every 5th shop, or so. I had some stunning mango cream jelly delight, as well as a real durian treat. This was basically a cream bun filled with durian that was also $1.50 for free and was perhaps one of the best desert dishes I have ever had, yes really I am not waxing lyrical right now.
Top 10 must try Street Food Beihai dishes and drinks
Honestly I could probably write a list of 50 food and drinks I enjoyed while doing the whole street food Beihai thing, but I will keep to 10 for now.
10. Fresh Fruit Juices (鲜榨果汁)
Start your Street Food Beihai crawl with a hit of cold mango, lychee, or dragon fruit juice. It’s hot, sticky, and loud in Beihai — and nothing cools you down like a violently pink cup of something freshly blended from a street vendor who barely looks up from their phone.…
9. Beihai Jelly (北海老冰棍 / 北海凉粉)
This local jelly, served cold with syrup and ice, is part dessert, part drink, and all nostalgia. Think of it as Beihai’s answer to bubble tea, only cheaper, weirder, and far more refreshing when you’re dripping sweat by 10am. Again is very much a thing that is sold everywhere.
8. Garlic Clams (蒜蓉花甲)
Seafood lovers, this one’s your holy grail. Grilled with enough garlic to make your ancestors cry and topped with fresh green onions and chili, these clams are messy, smoky, and about as local as it gets.
7. Beihai Shrimp Cake (北海虾饼)
Tiny shrimp, green onions, flour, and pepper. Pan-fried until golden and crispy outside, soft inside. A true taste of the Danjia seafaring culture, still alive and sizzling on the streets of Beihai. This can be found pretty much everywhere and it makes a great cheap snack.
6. Fried Noodles with Seafood (炒粉 / 炒面)
Wok-fried rice noodles or wheat noodles, overloaded with seafood and wok hei. Eaten from flimsy plastic bowls under flickering lights, it’s the kind of midnight meal that leaves you full, sweaty, and smiling. Mix with Chinese beer and you have the perfect Street Food Beihai combo.
5. Vietnamese Spring Rolls (越南春卷)
Fresh or deep-fried, stuffed with shrimp and herbs and dunked in chili-fish sauce or peanut dip. Being next to Vietnam Beihai has not just a large population of Vietnamese, but Guangxi people and cuisine has more more in kin with Hanoi than Beijing. Great fusion stuff.
4. Durian Cake (榴莲饼)
Hated by many, loved by those in the know. The smell punches you in the face, but once you get past that, you’ll find molten, creamy durian wrapped in a flaky pastry shell. Tastes amazing and so far I have only ever seen it as part of Beihai street food.
3. BBQ Beef Stuffed with Chili Pepper (牛肉夹辣椒)
Thin slices of beef rolled around fresh green chilies and grilled until juicy and blistered. It’s spicy, smoky, and surprisingly addictive.Pretty god damned spicy! But epic with bad Chinese beer.
2. Giant Grilled Oysters (生蚝)
Each one is the size of your fist and comes loaded with garlic, vermicelli, and chili. Straight off the grill, dripping in umami, and eaten with chopsticks or bare fingers if you’ve given up pretending to be polite.
1. Grilled Squid on a Stick (烤鱿鱼)
The champion of Beihai Street Food! Whole squid, skewered and charred over coals until the edges curl and crisp.What makes it so good? Well quite simply because it was so unexpected with the Chinese usually butchering squid to a rubbery spicy hell on earth. In Beihai there is not just variety, but overall it is just done well.
Conclusion on Beihai Street Food
OK, so lets hit the elephant in the room slap bang in the mouth! Often times China does not do seafood all that well, particularly in comparison to say Cambodia, or Thailand. Controversial perhaps? But this has certainly been my experience in Zhuhai, Hainan and many other places (no more crayfish please).
The Beihai street food though not only bucks that trend majorly, but also offers up a whole heap of other delights in a Guangdong-Guangxi-Vietnam fusion that is fairly unique.
So, yes I really would recommend it? Yes the city is great, but it is the Street Food Beihai scene that really makes it special.
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