OK, so should you go to Suva? The short answer to this is no, no you shouldn’t. Why is this? Well for the most part because it is pretty dangerous, but also because there really is not all that much to do here.
We do though understand that at times you cannot help but come here, such as when you visit Tuvalu or end up transiting through Fiji on some Pacific island hopping mission. Therefore we have put together our little Suva guide, in case visiting is unavoidable.
Table of Contents
What is Suva?
Suva is the capital of Fiji and the largest city in the country, located on the southeast coast of Viti Levu. It replaced Levuka as the capital in 1882 after the British decided that a swampy but expandable peninsula was better for administration than a pretty old trading post. This pretty much sums Suva up.
Today Suva has around 90,000 people in the city itself and closer to 180,000 if you include the surrounding sprawl. In Pacific terms that makes it huge. It is the political, bureaucratic and academic centre of Fiji. Parliament is here, the University of the South Pacific is here and so are most embassies, NGOs and assorted aid workers.
This is also a port city, meaning sailors, shipping, drinking and the problems that come with all of that. Ethnically it is a mix of iTaukei Fijians, Indo Fijians and everyone else, which gives it more grit than the resort towns. This is not postcard Fiji. This is working Fiji, and it is rough around the edges.
What to do in Suva?
OK, so I shit you not, but there are five things to do in Suva and all of them are pretty lame. Oh and the only tour company Toss The Salad Bowl Tours is, well, awful.
And yes, I have done all of the things on this shit list. Oh you can also buy medicine over the counter in Suva. The only reason I mention this is it is probably the third best thing to do here as well.
5. Thurston Gardens
Address: Cakobau Road, Suva
A small botanical garden next to the museum. It is fine. Not amazing, not terrible, just fine. You will spend about 15 minutes here and then wonder what you are meant to do next.
4. Suva Municipal Market
Address: Usher Street, Suva
Actually useful rather than fun. Fresh fruit, fish, yelling and chaos. Good for people watching and grabbing snacks. Go during the day and do not wave your phone around like a twat.
3. Buying medicine
Address: Various pharmacies around Victoria Parade
Yes, really. So you can buy antibiotics, valium and other favorites without a prescription in Suva.
2. Fiji Museum
Address: Cakobau Road, Thurston Gardens, Suva
Located inside the gardens. Cannibalism, colonial history and some genuinely interesting exhibits. It is small, but it is the most educational thing you will do in the city.
1. Leaving Suva
Address: Nausori Airport or Suva Bus Station
Getting out of Suva is hands down the best activity. Whether you are heading to Nadi, the Coral Coast or Tuvalu, this is the thing to do.
Eating in Suva
While I find Fijian cuisine to be fundamentally overrated, the fact that Suva is a city means there is at least some variety. Chief among them is McDonalds, as well as Burger King. I have to say they do a pretty decent McDonalds here, or maybe it was just that I had been in the Pacific too long.
Outside of fast food you get Indian, Chinese and vaguely Western places. It is not Bangkok, but you will not starve.
Click to read about Fijian cuisine.
5 Best Restaurants in Suva
5. Eden Bistro
Address: Victoria Parade, Suva
Cafe style food, drinkable coffee and a safe option when you cannot be bothered thinking.
4. Daikoku Japanese Restaurant
Address: Thomson Street, Suva
Surprisingly decent Japanese food. Not cheap, but a welcome break from curry and chips.
3. Tiko’s Floating Restaurant
Address: Pratt Street, Suva
Floating, a bit dated and clearly aimed at visitors, but the seafood is solid and the setting is decent.
2. Ashiyana
Address: Victoria Parade, Suva
Indian food is where Suva does reasonably well and this is one of the better spots. Big menu, proper spice and generally reliable.
1. McDonalds Suva
Address: Victoria Parade, Suva
Laugh all you want. When you just want something predictable, clean and quick, this wins every time.
Drinking in Suva Guide and the best bars
Suva and Fijians like a good drink, but they also like drugs and fighting, so due care should be taken. Bars range from absolute holes in the wall to nicer bars and nightclubs. People do get drugged or worse, so yes, you have been warned.
5 Best Bars in Suva
5. Bad Dog Cafe
Address: Victoria Parade, Suva
More bar restaurant than proper bar, but a decent place to start the night with food and beers.
4. Traps Bar
Address: Victoria Parade, Suva
Loud, busy and rough around the edges. Popular with locals and expats alike.
3. O’Reilly’s Bar
Address: Victoria Parade, Suva
An old expat haunt. It has seen better days but still draws a crowd and is relatively relaxed.
2. Birds of Paradise
Address: Pratt Street, Suva
More nightclub leaning. Fine if you are in a group. Less fun solo.
1. Leaving the bar early
Address: Wherever you are staying
The smartest drinking move in Suva is knowing when to fuck off home. This is not a city for heroic late nights.
Is Suva safe guide?
Is Suva safe? No, no it is not, and I say this as someone who travels to war zones for fun. Safety is always relative. Yes, Suva is not Mogadishu, but neither is it Nauru.
Violent crime is not guaranteed, but it does happen. Petty theft is common and muggings and assaults do occur, especially at night and around bars. You need to be particularly careful as a solo female or LGBTQ+ traveler.
AIDS and HIV rates are also very high in Fiji, so if you do end up going local, wear a wee hat on your chap. This is not optional advice.
So, should you visit Suva?
If you have been reading this article at all, you already know the answer is no. Do not visit Suva. There is nothing to do here and if you insist on coming to Fiji, then Nadi is where the action is.
I also personally find the whole bula bula friendly crap very contrivedand much like Thailand it is a constructed performance. If you do end up here, keep it to one or two days maximum or you might genuinely explode of boredom.
Click to check my Fiji tours with YPT.