While this is far from the most interesting or buzzing part of Cambodia, there is at least a decent street food Kampong Thom scene, at least one thing to see, and at least one hotel that makes it a fair staging point.
And we do not mean just for soldiers on their way to Preah Vihear which is about two hours north, with Kampong Thom sitting almost equidistant between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.
Tourism wise there is very little here save for a few jungle resorts and of course the hometown of Pol Pot. That is right, the most notorious killer in the Kingdom’s history was a Kampong Thom lad. Oh and yes, we did go and visit.
What the Kampong Thom?
Kampong Thom is a sleepy provincial capital with around fifty thousand people, making it one of Cambodia’s smaller cities despite being right in the middle of the country. The town sits along the Stung Sen River and is surrounded by farmland, rice fields and the odd half built resort that never quite made it. There is no mall, no cinema and no real nightlife to speak of. Compared to cities like Battambang, Kampot or Siem Reap, Kampong Thom feels like the forgotten cousin of Cambodian development.
The people here are friendly enough but life is slow and practical. It is poor by national standards and offers very little for the casual visitor. This is the kind of place where a new KTV opening is headline news and where locals gather around Wing Bank to talk about nothing in particular.
Street Food Kampong Thom
For a town this small, the street food Kampong Thom scene is actually not bad. Everything revolves around one main street that cuts through the centre, lined with noodle shops, barbecue stands and Khmer style restaurants. Things only really get moving after sunset when hawkers wheel out their carts and the smell of grilled meat fills the air.
Most of the food is straight up local stuff such as Khmer barbecue, fried noodles, fried rice and soups. Pork is the big one here. You will see whole pigs roasting on spits outside roadside restaurants, usually surrounded by men drinking beer and shouting at football on their phones. Down by the river there is another little strip where locals set up low tables and chairs for grilled fish, squid and cold cans of Cambodia beer.
There are no Western chains at all, except for the ever present Five Star Chicken stall and a Seoul Noodle Restaurant, both reliable rural Khmer staples. Aside from that it is pure street food, cheap, tasty and as local as it gets.
Drinking in Kampong Thom
Drinking in Kampong Thom is more of an event than a pastime. There are barely any proper bars, though the karaoke joints make up for it. These places start filling up around seven in the evening and go on until midnight, and while the singing is mostly terrible, the beer is cold and the vibe is friendly.
There is one decent rooftop bar in the city, found on top of the Glorious Hotel. They serve cocktails for about four dollars and offer the only real view worth having in Kampong Thom. The sunset over the river from there is actually quite nice, though you will be hard pressed to find much else to do afterwards.
Transport wise, there are about five tuk tuks in the whole city. They all hang out near Wing Bank in the centre, and by the end of day two I was on first name terms with three of them. It is that small.
What is there to see in Kampong Thom?
The first time I came to Kampong Thom was during Covid when I was working for Genius Sports as a football journalist. The local football team plays somewhere between the third and fourth tiers, which tells you everything you need to know about the entertainment level here. In Cambodia, good football towns tend to have good nightlife, and Kampong Thom has neither.
The one site of genuine interest is Prek Sbauv, the birthplace of Pol Pot. It is about twenty five minutes outside town, and while there are no plaques or signs, it is a fascinating place if you are into dark tourism. The locals know exactly whose village it is, but no one says much. When I went, I ended up meeting one of Pol Pot’s nephews who still lives there. It is a chilling and surreal glimpse into Cambodia’s past.
Aside from that, there is the Stung Sen River walk, a few colonial era shophouses and the odd crumbling temple. That is about it.
Where to Sleep in Kampong Thom
There are only a handful of hotels in Kampong Thom worth staying at. None of them are fancy, but they do the job if you need a night or two before moving on.
Glorious Hotel and Spa
National Road 6, Phum Balang Khang Lech, Sangkat Damrei Choan Khla, Krong Stung Saen
Phone: +855 10 890 000
Rooms from around thirty to forty dollars per night
This is the best hotel in town with a pool, gym and a rooftop bar. A bit far from the centre but clean and reliable.
Arunras Hotel and Restaurant
National Road 6, Kampong Thom Town Centre
Phone: +855 62 961 294
Rooms from eighteen to twenty five dollars per night
This is an older central hotel that doubles as a popular local restaurant. You will find plenty of Khmer dishes and a few Western attempts too. Basic but well located.
Seng Chhun Hotel
National Road 6, near Kampong Thom Market
Phone: +855 12 873 950
Rooms from fifteen to twenty dollars per night
A no frills option right by the market. Great if you want something central, cheap and simple.
All three are within the city proper and within walking distance of the food strip. If you go any further out, you will be stranded unless one of the five tuk tuks feels generous.
In Conclusion on Kampong Thom
There is very little reason to visit Kampong Thom unless you are into rural Khmer life, dark tourism or using it as a stopover. Luck for me, these be a few of my favourite things.
Would it qualify for ShitCities.com (ShitCities.com)? It most certainly would. But do not let that put you off. There is something oddly charming about how little happens here, and who doesnt like a bit of Khmer Rouge (KhmerRouge.com) chic.
Click to check my Cambodia Tours with Young Pioneer Tours.