While not exactly pumping in the form of Siem Reap, or even Battambang, there is enough going here to attract a couple of great western businesses, as well as there being a banging Street Food Kratie scene. And with its strategic location along the Vientiane to Phnom Penh hippy highway, Kratie is well worth a stop.
What about Kratie?
Kratie is a small provincial city in northeastern Cambodia, sitting on the banks of the Mekong River. With a population of around 30,000, it is quiet compared to bigger cities, but this is part of its charm. The town has a fascinating mix of French colonial architecture and traditional Khmer houses, giving it a laid-back, slightly forgotten feel.
For travellers, there’s plenty to do: watch the sunset over the Mekong, spot the rare Irrawaddy dolphins just upstream, or take a slow ferry ride to Koh Trong, a sleepy island perfect for cycling through rice paddies. The city also has a handful of museums, temples, and pagodas that offer a glimpse into local history, making it a small but worthwhile stop on the Cambo circuit.
Largelly there is nothing here related to the dark history of the Khmer Rouge to see, although that is not to say that the area didn’t suffer.
Street Food Kratie
Generally speaking, restaurants in Kratie are good, but few and far between, meaning it is all about the street food. The scene is mainly spread over three areas: the central market, down by the riverside, and on the main road going through the city.
Culinarily, you get all the classics like Khmer BBQ, noodles, and soups, but the real highlight is the freshly caught fish from the Mekong. You will see these almost everywhere, often served whole on a wooden stick. Local fish include Trey Kanh Chus (ត្រីកញ្ចុះ), Trey Riel (ត្រីរៀល), and Trey Ang (ត្រីអាំង), all grilled over charcoal and bursting with flavour.
Click to read about Kampong Thom Street Food.
Kratie Central Market
Everything in Kratie, particularly food, revolves around the central market, which would you believe is in the centre of the town. Here it’s an early start, but alas also an early finish. There are plenty of food carts doing BBQ and fish, as well as small restaurants. There’s a great view of the market from the Privada Lodge, but while it looks like Cambodian Vegas, it closes at 8 pm quite literally on the dot.
Kratie Riverside
The street food scene on the Kratie riverside is pretty good and can even get busy at night with young people. That being said, it is no Stung Treng with the few carts that there are offering simple BBQ and ice-cream. There is though no beer.
Kratie Main Road
If you find yourself staying at the Dolphin Hotel you’ll be a few kilometres from the Mekong. And in a city with bugger all tuk-tuks, this means a walk. The good news is that this street has some banging Khmer-style restaurants serving everything from good Cambodian fried noodles (Mee Cha មីឆា)to 5-star style Khmer burgers. In fact, you will even find masseurs and Khmer-style KTVs, if that’s your thing.
Kratie 7-Eleven
OK, so I will delve into if I am obsessed with 7-Eleven, nor if 7-Eleven counts as street food (the answer to both being yes). Kratie now has its own branch. They serve all the classics here, as well as it seemingly being the only place to get Soju.
Restaurants, Bars and Nightlife in Kratie
Still being a bit rural means that the bar, nightlife, and restaurant scene all blends a bit into one. And while there aren’t exactly hundreds of options, there’s enough going on to make at least a wee list:
Top 5 Bars & Restaurants in Kratie
- Privada Lodge Restaurant – Central Market Road, Kratie – Good mix of Khmer food and western options, central location.
- German Bakery & Restaurant – Main Street, Kratie – Authentic German sausages, bread, and beer.
- Sok San Restaurant – Riverside, Kratie – BBQ fish and local Khmer dishes.
- Dolphin Hotel Restaurant – Near the Mekong – Casual Khmer dining with Mekong views.
- Blue Pumpkin Café & Bakery – Riverside Road, Kratie – Coffee, cakes, western and Khmer food, great spot to chill with a Mekong view.
Where to Stay in Kratie Guide
If you are on a budget, then there are cheap, basic lodges here. Other than that, there are three decent options depending on budget:
River Dolphin Hotel
Riverside Road, Kratie – Comfortable rooms with Mekong views, central location.
Privada Lodge
Central Market Road, Kratie – Slightly upmarket, great food, and right in the middle of the action.
Rithy Rine Boutique Hotel
Main Street, Kratie – Mid-range, clean, and well-located for exploring town.
To summarise…
Kratie has a decent street food scene, enough foreign owned places for a bit of variety and overall a nice relaxed Khmer countryside vibe.
All this combined make it not just worth a trip if you are traveling in Cambodia, but also and ace in the hole as city breaks from Phnom Penh go.
Click to check out my Cambodia tours with Young Pioneer Tours.