Suakin, once Sudan’s most important port, is a place where the past lingers. It was a major trade hub connecting Africa to Arabia and the world. But over time, it faded into near ruin, especially after the British moved the key routes to Port Sudan. Now, Suakin is a bit of a ghost town.
The old buildings are crumbling, and the streets have a kind of quiet energy that feels stuck between yesterday and today. But even though it’s not a tourist hotspot, Suakin still has something real to offer, especially when it comes to food.
What the Suakin?
Suakin, once Sudan’s most important port, was a vital link between Africa and the wider world for centuries. Located on the Red Sea, it was a key trading hub for goods like spices, ivory, and slaves. The city’s strategic location made it an essential part of the Ottoman Empire’s maritime operations, and by the 19th century, Suakin was firmly under Ottoman control.
In the late 1800s, Suakin’s importance came under threat as the British expanded their influence in the region. During the Mahdist Uprising, Suakin was fiercely defended against British forces. However, after the British defeated the Mahdists, they chose to abandon Suakin in favor of a new port, Port Sudan, built up the coast in 1905.
The British hoped Port Sudan would be more manageable, and it quickly became the main port for Sudan, taking trade away from Suakin. Over the years, Suakin fell into decline, with its coral buildings deteriorating and its former glory fading into history.
Today efforts are being made to revive the town, particularly by Turkey whose ambassador visited just before me. Alas though Turkey will probably have to stop arming both sides of the conflict if it really wants to help Sudan.
Food in Suakin
When you first arrive in Suakin, it’s clear this isn’t a place that has been overly polished for tourists. The city is rough around the edges, with broken-down buildings and streets that feel like they’ve seen a lot. But there’s life here, and it’s in the food. The market is the center of it all. You won’t find anything fancy, but you’ll find an authentic glimpse into daily life.
The market is packed with fresh seafood from the Red Sea. Fish are grilled on the spot, hot and ready to eat. You can get them wrapped in paper and dig in right there on the street. There’s no fuss, just simple, fresh food. Along with fish, you’ll find meat, vegetables, and all sorts of spices that make up the heart of Sudanese cooking. Flatbreads are piled high, and you can pick up fuul (lentil stew) or snacks like roasted peanuts as you go. The market is also pretty cool, and along with its tea ladies is so very Sudan.
Street Food Suakin
Street food is everywhere in Suakin. There’s no fast food, no big chains, just small stalls and street vendors grilling food right in front of you. Grilled meats, fried fish, and juices like hibiscus tea are the main attractions. The vibe is laid-back. As the sun sets, the streets start to fill up with people grabbing a quick meal after a long day. It’s simple and satisfying food, perfect for filling up without breaking the bank.
If you want something local, fuul is a must-try. It’s a common dish made with lentils, served with flatbreads, and it’s perfect for breakfast or lunch. You’ll find it at almost every stall, and it’s cheap, filling, and tasty. It’s not fancy, but it’s exactly what you need in a place like Suakin. Another dish you’ll see a lot is stews, especially lentil-based ones. They’re rich and hearty, with a ton of flavor from spices and fresh ingredients. They’re a solid meal after a long, hot day in the city.
Alas there is no booze here, at least not officially although you can apparently import it if you know the right people.
The Restaurants of Suakin
Though Suakin isn’t known for its fine dining, there are a few spots to sit down and enjoy a proper meal. The most well-known is Ghanamaya Restaurant, often called The Maestro Restaurant by tourists. It’s a quirky spot that stands out not just for the food, but for the goats that roam around. The goats have a reputation for eating anything, even drinking Coke. While the goats weren’t around during my visit, the food was still solid. The restaurant serves typical Sudanese dishes: grilled meats, fish, and hearty stews. It’s not a high-end place, as you can see from the photos, but it is iconic which is enough for The Street Food Guy! And yes it will be getting its own article.
Another option is the small local cafes that serve tea and coffee, along with sweets like baklava. It’s a simple experience, but one that lets you slow down and watch life go by in this quiet, somewhat forgotten city.
What to See in Suakin
Suakin isn’t just about food, it’s also a city with a rich history. You won’t find big tourist attractions, but the remnants of the past are everywhere. The Ruined Coral City is a must-see. These crumbling buildings were once a bustling Ottoman port, and now they’re a quiet reminder of the city’s former glory. Walking through the ruins, it’s easy to imagine what Suakin was like centuries ago when it was a major stop on the trade routes.
You can also visit the El-Geyf Mosque, one of the oldest mosques in Sudan. While it’s not the biggest or most famous mosque, it’s an important part of Suakin’s history and a reminder of the city’s Islamic roots. The Old Port Area is also worth a visit, though it’s not much more than a series of crumbling docks. Still, it’s fascinating to think that this was once the heart of Sudan’s maritime trade.
For anyone interested in Sudan’s colonial past, the Bank of Khartoum Suakin is an important site. Established during the Anglo-Egyptian era, it’s the oldest bank in Sudan. Although you would hardly know what it once was from there wreckage. The Ottoman Customs House and Gordon’s Gateway are also remnants of the colonial period, though they too have seen better days.
And, of course, the Ferry Terminal to Jeddah is still active, with ferries heading out to Saudi Arabia. This terminal connects Sudan to Saudi Arabia for pilgrims heading to Mecca and is a key part of Suakin’s transport network, even if it’s not a glamorous part of the city.
Getting to Suakin
Suakin is about an hour’s drive from Port Sudan, the city that most people use to get to Suakin. You can take a taxi or hop on a shared minibus to make the trip. The road is pretty decent, so the journey isn’t too bad.
If you’re feeling adventurous, you can even catch a ferry from Jeddah in Saudi Arabia to Suakin, though that takes a bit more patience and time.
Conclusion
I was actually really taken a back by Suakin, in part at least I guess because I had no idea that I was coming here, or indeed what was even here. I am though super glad I stayed here, even if it meant I had to sleep outside that night (a long story).
And I will be back either on a Port Sudan Tour, or ideally when the “real” Sudan manages to reopen.