If you like obscure islands in fairly under visited countries then Atauro Island will probably tick more than a few boxes for you. Located just an hour or so off the coast of the capital city of Dili, this is one of the major tourist attractions of Timor-Leste.
Is Atauro though worth the effort and indeed the fairly high price of travel to get here? Well yes no and maybe. Here is the Atauro Island Guide.
Table of Contents
What the Atauro Island?
Atauro Island is a long rocky bit of land that just about qualifies as paradise if your definition of paradise includes goats, epic sunsets, and absolutely bugger all to do. It sits in the Wetar Strait between Timor-Leste and Alor Island in Indonesia and has around 10,000 residents scattered across dusty villages and seaside hamlets. It used to be a prison island under Portuguese rule which probably says more about the Portuguese than the island itself.
There’s no bank, no real internet, and definitely no McDonald’s. What it does have though is charm. That and some of the best diving in the world, allegedly. People mostly live from the sea and the land, and you’ll likely meet more pigs than tourists.
Getting to Atauro Island
You’ve got two main ways to get to Atauro Island and neither is going to make your life easy. The regular ferry leaves from Dili and takes about 90 minutes if the sea is calm. It costs around $5 if you’re on the big local boat called the Nakroma which runs a few times a week and is basic but reliable.
Then there’s the Dragon Boat ferry which costs more like $20 one way and is aimed squarely at tourists. It’s a speedboat and takes around one hour unless the sea decides to remind you who’s in charge. When the water is rough and the winds are up this trip can take closer to three hours and make you question all your life choices. On my last trip I honestly thought I was going to die. No joke.
Private boats can also be arranged for around $100 or so one way depending on your charm and bargaining skills. These might shave off a bit of time or leave when the ferries don’t but you’re still playing roulette with the waves.
| Ferry Option | Time | Price (USD) | Notes |
| Nakroma Ferry | 1.5–2 hr | ~$5 | Local, cheap, runs 2–3 times a week |
| Dragon Boat | 1 hr | ~$20 | Tourist boat, faster, less reliable |
| Private Boat Hire | 1–3 hr | ~$100+ | Expensive, flexible, rough in bad seas |
Photo: Atauro Dive Resort- Timor Leste
What is there to do on Atauro Island
Let’s be honest. There’s not much to do. But that’s the whole point.
Diving and snorkelling are the big draws here. Atauro allegedly sits on the edge of the most biodiverse reef system in the world. The water is clear, blue and full of things that could either inspire or terrify you. Most people staying here dive during the day and drink warm beer at night while swapping fish stories that may or may not be true.
There’s a hiking trail that will take you over the spine of the island, past villages and forests and at least one church in the middle of nowhere. It’s hot and dusty and there’s a good chance you’ll get lost. There’s also an airstrip you can walk to and pretend you’re in a low-budget remake of Lost.
There is exactly one bar on the island and that’s being generous. If you like talking to geckos and staring into the darkness then Atauro might just be your dream nightlife spot. But it’s real. People live here. I got a straight razor shave for one US dollar from a guy who ran a barbershop with a single chair and a mirror taped to the wall. That’s the sort of thing you come here for.
Atauro Dive Resort
This is the only place on the island that vaguely resembles a resort and even that’s pushing the definition. It’s got wooden bungalows, solar lights, and outdoor toilets where you can do your business with a view of the stars. They serve a lunch and dinner buffet which, to be fair, is decent and usually includes rice, fish, and something curried.
Breakfast is basic but does the job. They’ve got cold drinks, a tiny generator-powered bar fridge and a vibe that makes you feel like Robinson Crusoe with WiFi. Except there’s usually no WiFi. Still, if you want a roof over your head and three meals a day it’s pretty much the only game in town.
Street Food Atauro Island and Nightlife
Food wise this is not Bangkok. This isn’t even Phnom Penh. But there is food and you won’t starve. People cook at home. Locals grill meat by the roadside and if you’re lucky it might be chicken or beef. If you’re really lucky it might be pork because unlike in Indonesia the Timorese have no issues with bacon.
The best place to eat if you want something approaching a menu is at the dive resort up the hill. They’ve got a bar with actual cocktails, a pool of sorts and music if the generator is working and someone remembered to bring a speaker. On a good day it feels like a beach bar. On a bad day it feels like a scene from a post-apocalyptic travel vlog.
There are a few kiosks and shops scattered around selling cold beer and snacks. Ice is rare so drink it warm or drink it fast. The local shops also sell instant noodles, mystery meat in cans, and Timorese coffee which is strong enough to wake the dead.
Go forth and BBQ! After they have shops and you are on an island!!!
Conclusions on Atauro Island
Do not come expecting something from the Philippines Thailand or hell even Cambodia. Timor is Timor and despite this being the place to go it is still very basic which tells you a lot about Timor itself.
There’s no scene here. There’s no backpacker trail or beach party. What there is though is space. Silence. Stars. Locals who smile without trying to sell you anything. Goats. A whole lot of goats. And that’s what makes it special.
But thats the problem with paradise, it is only paradise if you decide it is…
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