So, Nouakchott has been called one of the most boring cities in the world, but is that really true? Well yeah it really is, as our Nouakchott Guide will show.
And why is this? Well there is no nightlife, no drinking, few restaurants, and well not all that much going on. Of course there are click baiting influencers that will claim otherwise in order to get clicks, but the reality is the reality.
It is though survivable, with there if nothing else being street food, supermarkets and more restaurants than in the rest of the country. This though is very much economies of scale time.
Table of Contents
What the Nouakchott?
Nouakchott started as a small fishing village. In the late 1950s, when Mauritania gained independence, it was chosen to be the capital because it was empty and easy to build on. The government laid out a simple grid of streets, built government offices and a harbour. Over time drought and desertification drove people from rural areas into the city, swelling the population and creating sprawling informal neighbourhoods, makeshift housing, dusty roads and sand blowing through concrete. Now roughly 1.5 million people live in Nouakchott. The city is a jumble of modern buildings, government offices, fish markets, open-air bazaars and hot dusty streets. It is messy, raw, chaotic, full of people trying to survive in a harsh environment.
Nouakchott Guide to Eating
Mauritanian cuisine here is simple and heavy. Most food is rice, millet, bread, meat, fish, or peanut-based stews. Vegetables are rare and usually dusty. Seafood dominates along the coast and is often sold straight from the market. Fish stews, fried fish, couscous, and peanut sauces are everywhere. Portions are big and filling. Not clean, not fancy, but it works.
If you want something safer than street food there are a few restaurants that locals and foreigners go to:
- Les Sultanes Restaurant – known for seafood and grilled fish. Address: Avenue Kennedy, Nouakchott. Phone: +222 44 33 22 53
- TAFARIT Sun House – serves seafood, lobster, fish and grilled dishes. Address: Avenue Al Quds, Tevragh Zeina, Nouakchott. Phone: +222 45 25 46 73
- Le Maquis – mixed grill and meat-and-fish options. Address: Rue Benhmeida, Nouakchott. Phone: +222 36 40 51 05
Street food is everywhere: grilled goat and lamb skewers, fried small fish, rice or bread wraps, sweet mint tea. Cheap, filling, messy. That is what Nouakchott eats.
Nouakchott Guide to Nightlife and Drinking in Mauritania
There is almost nothing in terms of nightlife. Drinking alcohol is illegal. Bars or pubs do not exist openly. Some high-end hotels or foreign-run places may quietly serve alcohol to foreigners but it is rare and unreliable. On a short trip it is unlikely you will be able to drink. Long stay people just need to befriend expats…
Sex is also officially illegal outside marriage. Sharing a hotel room with a local woman if you are not married is prohibited. Some high-end hotels or Airbnbs may turn a blind eye but you have to ask if it is worth the hassle.
Getting in and away
Nouakchott has the main international airport in Mauritania. Flights connect to nearby countries such as Senegal, Morocco and Algeria. Roads exist but are rough. Public transport is patchy and often slow. Minibuses or shared taxis are used, with frequent stops, dust, and no comfort. Cards are not accepted hardy anywhere. Bring cash. Travel outside the city is rough, dusty and slow.
Conclusion
Mauriantaians are very nice and the country is very interesting, to a degree and Nouakchott is the nexus of the country. This means more places to eat and hang out, but again this is not saying much.
It is though safe and the launching point for when you do the Iron Ore train, which aside from country collecting is the sole reason to really visit. Click to check my Mauritania Tours with YPT.