As the first city in Papua New Guinea over the border from Indonesia, as well as the next stop on my overland Papuan adventure, I was to be seriously pleasantly surprised by Vanimo.
That’s because as well as being obscenely beautiful, Vanimo also exists almost like some kind of weird inland island utopia of safety. That’s right, Vanimo is pretty much the only place in Papua New Guinea where you can do normal things like walk around.
Therefore if you have the time, energy and money then a bit of Vanimo travel is well worth it.
What the Vanimo?
Vanimo is a small town in West Sepik province on the northern coast of Papua New Guinea, right on the border with Indonesia. It has a population of around 20,000 people and is the provincial capital. The town has grown slowly over the years from a colonial-era trading post into a quiet administrative centre. Most of the buildings are low-rise and wooden, with corrugated roofs and painted in bright colours.
The streets are wide and mostly empty compared to Port Moresby or Lae, giving it a more relaxed and safe atmosphere. Vanimo is also a hub for local trade and has a small airport connecting it to other parts of PNG, though most visitors arrive overland from Indonesia. Despite its size, it is one of the few places in the country where normal urban life feels possible, with markets, schools and basic shops operating without fear.
What is there to do in Vanimo?
Vanimo offers a surprising range of things to do considering its size. The beaches are quiet and unspoiled, perfect for a walk or to watch the sunset. A short walk from the town takes you to small waterfalls hidden in the jungle, and local guides can take you inland to nearby villages to see traditional crafts and meet locals. The surf in Vanimo is surprisingly good and attracts a few surfers, and fishing trips can be arranged through locals.
The surrounding area is good for birdwatching and exploring coastal jungle, with small streams, rivers and wildlife to spot along the way. You can also hire a boat to visit nearby islands or arrange a beachside BBQ, making it an ideal spot for a relaxed Papuan experience.
Walking around Vanimo
OK, so while there are “things to do” in Vanimo, one of the best things you can do here is to do things that are normal in other places, but you can’t usually do in PNG. One of these things is walking around the town.
This essentially involves a 20-minute or so circle around with you also able to take in the market along the seafront. Alas there is not all that much to do, save the two closed supermarkets, but it is nice to be able to just do it at all. Walking here, taking in the sights and sounds without worrying about safety, is genuinely a rare experience in Papua New Guinea.
Sleeping in Vanimo
While Vanimo is a super cool place, that is not to say that it is exactly Ibiza either. In fact, when it comes to nightlife and the like it is not even really like Sorong. Therefore food, drink and pretty much anything social revolves around the two hotels of the town.
The Vanimo Beach Hotel is the main option. It sits on the waterfront, has clean rooms, and staff who are friendly and helpful. Prices start from about 150 kina a night for a standard room. The Westpac Hotel is a little further inland and slightly cheaper, with rooms starting around 120 kina. Both hotels have basic bars and restaurants and serve as the main social hubs of the town for visitors.
Eating in Vanimo
So, while there is not exactly a huge eating scene in Vanimo, most of it coming at the hotels, and certainly not much of a street Vanimo scene, that is not to say it is completely without charm or options.
The Vanimo Beach Hotel restaurant does a solid breakfast and basic dinners with fresh fish and chicken. The Westpac Hotel serves simple meals and cold beer, reliable and filling. Street food-wise there are a few Kai Bars in the two supermarkets, as well as snacks being sold at the market at the waterfront. Again, hardly eclectic, but enough to feed you. One can also arrange a beachside BBQ if they desire, usually organised through the hotel or local guides.
Click read about PNG cuisine.
The Vanimo Nightlife aka Speakeasy
While we initially thought the bars closed at 20.30 at their own volition, it soon became apparent that, unlike the rest of PNG, this was actually the time bars had to close. And you know what, I cannot slight them as it is the safest place in PNG.
With that being said though, I was still a bit put out my evening had ended. This was until I heard noises forming from my room at the Vanimo Beach Hotel. It turns out that next door, but within the grounds, there is a secret speakeasy that also doubles as a karaoke joint. And you know what, the people were friendly and welcoming. Alas, no Paiawara, at least on this occasion.
Conclusion
While you would not exactly go to Vanimo to party, it is still well worth visiting. That is because not only does the place offer beaches and serenity, but honestly a really different kind of Papua New Guinea experience, a safe one.
This might not sound like a lot, but if you have more than a passing interest in PNG culture, then this is a huge deal.
And you can visit with me through Young Pioneer Tours on one of my Papua New Guinea tours.