Being the capital of the former Republic of South Maluku Ambon has not just been on my bucket list, but has borderline been an obsession for a while.
Why the obsession? Well the answer is myriad! Partly I love all things Melanesian, partly I love former countries and perhaps most importably I hoped it have potential for tours.
Well I have now visited and can thus write an Ambon guide. And the overall verdict? A little disappointed and now unsure whether it is ripe for YPT style tourism.
What the Ambon Guide
Ambon is a messy little city with a violent past. In the late 1950s the Republic of South Maluku tried to break away from Indonesia and got smashed hard. People were killed, buildings destroyed and supporters hunted down.
The scars are still visible in the streets and in the tense vibe (real) locals carry around. Life is rough, money is tight and nothing really works properly.
The RMS still exists in theory, even if what some call Javanese imperialism has rendered it just like any other tier 2 Indonesian Island. I am looking at you Lombok.
What is there to do in Ambon Guide
Sadly there is cock all to do in Ambon save one museum, some parks and it being a “City of Music”. There also beaches, but they are not just not much to write home about, also a bit lifeless.
Fort Victoria
Walk the old Dutch fort and stare at the bay while thinking about how many poor bastards died here.
Jl. Slamet Riyadi No.1, Uritetu, Sirimau, Kota Ambon, Maluku 97000, Indonesia
Siwalima Museum
A modest museum showcasing Maluku’s culture and history. Open Monday to Friday, 8:00 AM–4:00 PM; Saturday, 8:00 AM–5:00 PM; closed on Sunday.
Jl. Dr. Malaiholo, Taman Makmur, Kel. Nusaniwe, Kec. Nusaniwe, Kota Ambon, Maluku 97000, Indonesia
Karang Panjang Beach
A quiet beach with sand and water. Some vendors sometimes.
Karang Panjang area, about 10 minutes from downtown Ambon, Kota Ambon, Maluku 97000, Indonesia
Peace Gong
A weird park with a giant gong. Locals hang out here. I got some meatballs with hot sauce and noodles nearby.
Center of Ambon city, Kota Ambon, Maluku 97000, Indonesia
City of Music
Ambon calls itself the City of Music. If you stumble across a local performance, it is worth a look. Otherwise, walk on.
City center, Kota Ambon, Maluku 97000, Indonesia
Ambon War Cemetery
This cemetery is the final resting place for over 2,000 Allied soldiers, primarily Australians, who died during World War II. The Ambon Memorial, situated on the first terrace, commemorates those with no known grave. Open Monday to Friday, 9:30 AM to 4:00 PM, by appointment.
5 km northeast of Ambon on the main road to Galala, Kota Ambon, Maluku 97000, Indonesia
Where to sleep
For a tropical island hotels are very spartan in Ambon, with me personally going for the Hotel Santika. This place offered great views, but was for all intents and purposes another corporate Javanese hell hole.
Hotel Santika Ambon Jalan Pattimura 1
Swiss-Belhotel Ambon Jalan Sultan Hairun 17
The Natsepa Beach Resort Jalan Natsepa
Where to eat in Ambon Guide
Before coming to a tropical island I was as you might expect quite excited about eating seafood. Squid in particular, so I checked online to see the best restaurant and was sent to Seli Guri Beach Restaurant. Great views and the vestiges of what could be a fabulous restaurant. Alas the menu was devoid of any seafood and the best drink you could get was a Bintang.
While there are other dining establishments, they generally offered subpar Indonesian cuisine. I was unable to sample any Malukan specialties.
Seli Guri Beach Restaurant
Jl. Wolter Monginsidi, Lateri, Baguala, Kota Ambon, Maluku 97126, Indonesia
Phone: +62 811-9798-598
Rumah Makan Sari Gurih
Jl. Kopra, Ambon 97126, Indonesia
Phone: +62 911 341888
Warung Makan Kilo Ambon
Jl. Anthony Rebok, Kel. Honipopu, Kec. Sirimau, Kota Ambon, Maluku 97127, Indonesia
Phone: +62 813-4409-7665
Street Food Ambon
As I’m The Street Food Guy I went in search of street food. Alas there was not much to the street food Ambon scene. Basically there is one street near the Hotel Santika with vendors, but again just simple Indonesian fare like grilled chicken, fried rice and fried noodles. Yes Indonesian street food is bad.
The beaches were even worse as not only were half the vendors not even open, but even the ones that were had almost nothing to offer other than ramen and coconuts. The closest thing to a success I got was meat balls with hot sauce and some noodles by the park at the Peace Gong. Sadly the overall scene was so bad I am unsure if it even deserves its own article.
Nightlife of Ambon Guide
While the street food of Ambon was bad it could not hold a candle to the nightlife, which was non existent. Due to Javanese imperialism getting anything other than a beer here is almost impossible with me having to settle for a Mix Max at Hotel Santika as the closest thing to a party.
This though was not for lack of trying with me even taking a taxi to where ChatGPT said there was a banging nightclub. Once again and much like in Datong AI had invented a place that did not exist. Don’t go out based on AI.
Aside from that a local advised me that youngsters go and hang out on the beach. All very nice perhaps for an hour, but hey I am a busy man that needs a little bit more than that.
Conclusion
Despite finding Ambon for want of better words “a bit shit” I will be back here. You see from what I can gather there is much more to Maluku than Ambon, with it merely being the gateway to getting there.
Also, I’m fucking stubborn when it comes to things like this! Regardless too, YPT can now offer trips here as part of our West Papua Tours.