I am truly not waxing lyrical when I say that Jayapura and Sentani in particular is one of the most beautiful places on earth. And cementing this fact is Asei Island.
And while there really isn’t all that much to do on said island, the views alone make it well worth the boat trip when you visit West Papua.
What the Sentani
Sentani is where most people end up after landing in Jayapura, and in many ways it’s the better place to be. It has more of a laid-back feel, with local life happening right in front of you. It sits on the edge of Lake Sentani, a vast inland body of water surrounded by green hills and small fishing villages. This is also where you’ll find Teletubbies Hill, an absolutely surreal lookout point with one of the best views in Papua.
Locals head there in droves for the sunset and it makes for a brilliant photo spot. There’s also a surprising amount of good street food around the lake, including stalls selling grilled fish, fresh juice and spicy bakso. If you’re looking for a place to slow things down and take in the real Papua, Sentani is a solid base.
Taking the boat to Asei Island
The dock where you catch the boat to Asei Island could actually be a tourist attraction in itself, and perhaps once was if the boarded-up shops are anything to go by. These days, it’s mostly local men hanging around in the shade waiting for the next boat or chatting to whoever passes through. There’s also one street food vendor there who has clearly claimed the turf, and I can confirm his meatballs and spicy sambal sauce were indeed the dog’s bollocks.
Getting to the island means hopping into a small wooden boat.
There are some larger cruise-type vessels tied up nearby which no doubt once ferried big tour groups in more optimistic times. The ride itself takes about ten minutes and offers some brilliant views of other tiny islands scattered across the lake. It’s calm, quiet and seriously underrated.
How to travel to Asei Island independently
To reach Asei Island without a guide, make your way to Dermaga Khalkote in Sentani. That’s the local jetty, and any ojek or driver will know it if you say “Pelabuhan Khalkote.” You can negotiate directly with boat drivers. Expect to pay somewhere between 100,000 to 200,000 rupiah for a round trip depending on how long you stay and you skills at negation.
Click to read about Teletubbies Hill.
What is there to do on Asei Island
So, here’s the kicker. There really is bugger all to do on this island save for a gentle walk up to the small church at the top of the hill. Even calling it a hike is pushing it. That being said, the views from up there are something else. You’ll see right across Lake Sentani, with jungle and misty hills in every direction.
You can also wander through the stilt houses where people are surprisingly welcoming. I’ve been invited into homes before just to sit, talk and share a juice or a coffee. The big draw, though, is the artwork. Asei Island is known for its bark paintings and the local artists set up small stalls to sell them. It’s not mass-produced junk either. This is the kind of real, raw art you actually want to buy. I always do.
Once you’ve walked around, taken some photos, and bought a painting or two, there’s not much else to do. But that’s the point. The locals aren’t in a rush and neither should you be. Everyone is just hanging out in paradise, and as far as lake islands go, I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything as visually perfect as this.
Can you stay on Asei Island? I honestly don’t know. But if you can, I might just do it next time I run a West Papua tour.
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