When you start asking around for restaurants to try local food in Rantepao and Toraja, there is one name that keeps coming up – and that is Warung Pong Buri. And this was coming from people I spoke to and continuously on TikTok.
Therefore, when I went to check out the Rantepao street food scene, this was somewhere that I beelined to. Imagine my shock not to be greeted by a plush restaurant, but instead a very, very simple affair, more street food in orientation, but ram-packed with people.
At this point I knew it would be legit! And spoiler alert, the food was awesome and the sambal was one of the spiciest things I have eaten in my life.
Table of Contents
What is Warung Pong Buri?
Warung Pong Buri has been serving traditional Torajan dishes in Rantepao for around 20 years. It is a small, popular local restaurant on Jl. Emmy Saelan, with space for around 30 people, and has long been particularly known for its pa’piong, which is cooked in bamboo and is the local thing to try.
Unlike many restaurants where you have to order pa’piong in advance, Pong Buri has traditionally had it ready to serve. The warung has remained a small, local affair rather than becoming some kind of tourist restaurant, which is probably a big part of its appeal. Today it has a 4.2 rating on Google from more than 500 reviews. The (few) negative reviews are from people that just don’t get it and probably never will.
What to eat at Warung Pong Buri?
OK, so Torajan cuisine is yet to conquer the world, but it is unique and well, you get pork. By this point in my travels I had missed pork. Many cannot live on buffalo alone.
So, here’s what you come for;
Pa’piong babi — pork cooked inside bamboo with spices and mayana leaves. This is the signature dish of Pong Buri’ and is the thing I’d definitely get. It’s smoky, juicy and slightly bitter from the leaves.
Pamarasan babi — pork in the thick, dark sauce made with pangi/kluwek. It looks a bit like rawon but has a much more distinctive Torajan flavour.
Sup brenebon — pork and red-bean soup. Recent reviews specifically recommend it and describe the portion as large.
Katokkon sambal — the local Toraja chilli. Absolutely insanely hot, don’t go overboard until you try it first. Of course I found this out the hard way.
The Food and Ambience at Warung Pong Buri
OK, so as stated, this is a proper hole-in-the-wall street food type menu that is known as THE place to try local dishes. There’s no menu, you just grab a plate and help yourself, before mountains of rice are brought to your table.
I went, I think, for Pamarasan babi, although it could have been the Pa’piong babi. Regardless, it was black fatty pork that tasted almost smoked and extremely gamey. Was a big fan of this.
I also got some kind of chicken dish, that was good, not overcooked and had some interesting local veggies with it. I think I erroneously called it duck in the TikTok video, but whatever.
The crowning glory though was the Katokkon sambal. I love sambal and will have to give it its own article at some point. I also have a huge tolerance for spicy food, but this was from another galaxy. Really good though – in moderation. Oh, and you have the choice of cutlery or eating with your hands like the locals and washing your hands in a little tray of water. Of course, that’s what I did.
The whole thing set me back 100,000 Rupiah, which sounded like a lot until I realized it was actually $6.
Address of Warung Pong Buri
Warung Pong Buri’
Jl. Emmy Saelan No.37, Malango’
Rantepao, North Toraja Regency
South Sulawesi 91833
Indonesia
Tel: +62 822-5588-6686
Basically, the place in Rantepao to try local food. That it has only 4.2 on Google is probably from people that thought they would end up at some refined fine dining affair. This is not that, this is eating like a local, so if you’re not into that then just don’t come to Warung Pong Buri.
If, though, you’re a bit of a street food guy or gal, then it’s ace.
Click to see my tours to Indonesia.