What is Oecusse and why is it the least visited part of the least visited country in South-East Asia? Well, we explain all this and more in the Street Food Oecusse Guide!
One thing we can sneak preview for you though is that yes, this does make it onto the infamous Shit City list—and not without reason. But hey, you don’t travel to a Timorese exclave for the glamour, do you?
What the Oecusse?
Oecusse is a political and geographical anomaly—a Timorese exclave surrounded by Indonesian West Timor. It’s technically called Oecusse-Ambeno, but no one actually says the “Ambeno” bit unless they’re writing a UN report. This is where the Portuguese first landed in the 1500s, making it a kind of spiritual birthplace of colonised Timor.
The area is home to roughly 70,000 people, most of whom live in rural villages. Back in the heady days of post-independence optimism, the Timorese government promised to turn Oecusse into a Special Economic Zone under a grandiose plan called ZEESM. Roads were paved, an international airport was built, and brochures were printed. Unfortunately, that’s about as far as it got.
As a matter of record I personally interviewed the President of Timor-Leste (legally has to be mentioned in very article) about Oecusse and asked about this economic miracle. He gave a very polite answer, but make no mistake: no economic zone exists here, at least not one that functions. What you get instead is great infrastructure and absolutely no one using it.
What to do in Oecusse Guide
So what do you do in Oecusse? Well, here are the Top 5-ish attractions:
- Visit the site where the Portuguese first landed. There’s a statue, a cross, and some historical vibes—if you squint.
- Wander around a couple of old colonial churches. Quiet, lovely, and deserted—just like most of Oecusse.
- Go to the supermarket. I’m not being sarcastic—this place is actually a highlight. Think: functioning refrigeration and a decent chocolate aisle.
- Take a 2-hour drive to the mud geyser, which is so important that there are actual signs pointing to it. It’s exactly as exciting as it sounds.
- And finally, leaving Oecusse—not just an option, but often a recommended highlight.
Street Food Oecusse Guide – oh and nightlife
Now onto the “street food” situation. Oecusse is not exactly a culinary capital. There are a few restaurants serving passable-at-best Indonesian-style food—think fried noodles, stale rice, and whatever protein happened to survive the ferry crossing.
There is one beachfront bar that is, by Oecusse standards, kind of OK. Cold-ish beers, plastic chairs, and an actual view of the ocean. It’s where hope goes to sip a Bintang and contemplate ferry schedules.
For real food, we rely on our friends at the Royal Rao Hotel, who cook for us on request. And you know what? They do a petty damned good job.
Where to Sleep in Oecusse Guide
Your options here are pretty much one: the Royal Rao Hotel. Rooms are basic—think fan, a bed, and if you’re lucky, running water. Breakfast consists of toast and instant coffee. It’s $25 a night, which honestly feels about right.
This place also plays host to government officials whenever they pop in, so it’s the default choice for pretty much everyone. They do, however, make their own version of “Sangria”, which is less Spanish wine and more Timorese moonshine (aka Paiawara). You’ll drink it once and never forget it.
Despite what you might’ve heard, Oecusse is not going to take over the world, well not yet.
How to Get In and Out of Oecusse Guide
Getting to Oecusse is half the experience.
- By Land: If you want to drive in via the Wini border, you’ll need special permission unless you’re holding an EU passport. And even then, it can be a bureaucratic joyride. I though and of course YPT can do this.
- By Air: Oecusse does have an international airport. Occasionally, Timor-Leste’s national airline (yes, there is one) runs flights here from Dili. These are sporadic and best booked through a fixer or local agent.
- By Sea: There’s a ferry that runs from Dili to Oecusse once or twice a week. It’s slow, uncomfortable, and only occasionally on time—but you do get great views of empty beaches and rusty freighters.
Let’s be honest: there aren’t many reasons to come to Oecusse, but at least you’ve got options.
Conclusion on Oecusse
Despite what might seem like a scathing review, I’ve actually been to Oecusse twice—and that wasn’t even a punishment. OK, it was for work, but still. The place has a certain weird charm, a post-colonial melancholy that appeals to those of us who collect geopolitical oddities.
Is there much to do here? Not really. Is it worth visiting if you’re a normal human and not a passport nerd or enclave enthusiast? Probably not. But if you are the kind of traveller who gets giddy over maps, exclaves, and failed casinos, then Oecusse just might be your kind of place.
And yes, I’ll probably be back, particularly if they ever finish that damned casino.
Click here to check out my Timor-Leste Tours with Young Pioneer Tours.