I will do a full guide to this place later, but in short it is an absolute fucking hidden gold bar of a place! And the street food Weizhou scene is merely the huge piece of icing on this already wonderful cake.
This untouched gem (I did not see a single other foreigner there) is reachable from the southern tip of China through Beihai and from what I have seen so far is the place in China to come for seafood.
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What the Weizhou Guide?
Weizhou Island is the largest volcanic island in China, sitting roughly 20 kilometres off the coast of Beihai in the Gulf of Tonkin. At just under 25 square kilometres, it is small enough to explore in a day but packed with surprises that make lingering worthwhile. It was formed by ancient volcanic eruptions, and much of the landscape still shows it—black basalt rock, dramatic sea cliffs, and oddly shaped coastlines that look more like Micronesia than mainland China.
There are two main towns: Weizhou Town and Nanwan. The former is home to most guesthouses and daily life, while the latter, centred around Crocodile Hill, draws the tourist crowd. You’ll find volcanic parks, Catholic churches left over from French missionaries, quiet beaches, and a smattering of temples. Renting a scooter is the best way to get around. It is flat, hot, and easy to navigate.
The island sees mostly domestic tourism, with me not seeing one other foreigner there, with said tourism mostly occurring during holidays. That means that this is no Hainian and certainly no Bali, it is just well Weizhou.
Street Food Weizhou
I first tried to come to Weizhou over 10 years ago and despite never having been was tempted to open a bar here to replace the DMZ in Yangshuo. It was described to me as a place with tourism, but still a basic simplistic island with TukTuks a relaxed vibe and great food.
And? Well I have to say that while it was very different to what I had expected the description was fairly correct, particularly when it comes to food. Overall the culinary scene is obviously dominated by fish markets and fish restaurants, with one able to visit the former then employ the services of the second for a nominal “corkage fee”.
The system here not just works, but works bloody well with the seafood markets and restaurants everywhere. This means that much like in Beihai the Street Food Weizhou scene does not have to be sought out it is pretty much just a human right.
Aside from this of course there are other restaurants, high-end hotel type deals, as well as even a weird burger joint, but honestly if you don’t like fish, or worse still are vegan you will likely starve here.
Best Street Food Weizhou Seafood Markets
OK so if you wanna get really serious about the street food Weizhou scene then put down the beer get on your scooter and head to one of the seafood markets. These are the beating heart of culinary life here and are some of the best I have yet to find on my travels.
1. Nanwan Seafood Market (南湾海鲜市场)
The main act. Loud, chaotic, and full of weird things in tanks. This is where tourists and locals collide over slipper lobster, razor clams, and fat sea urchins. After shopping, bring your haul to one of the surrounding fry-up joints who’ll cook it however you want be it garlic, chili, black bean, or steamed in beer. They are though less keen to go raw dog.
How to get there: From anywhere on the island, just say “Nanwan Haixian Shichang (南湾海鲜市场).” It’s beside Nanwan Port (南湾码头) where most boats arrive.
2. Chengzai Market (城仔市场)
Right in Weizhou Town (涠洲镇), this is your classic local market which is less touristy and thus far more open for morning photo shots of real market life and reminded me of Kep in many ways.
How to get there: Walk from any guesthouse in the town centre. Ask for “Chengzai Shichang (城仔市场).”
3. Shiluokou Fishing Port (石螺口渔港)
You want raw, uncut Weizhou? This is it. Fishermen roll in at dawn, dumping crates of live catch right onto the docks. There’s no structure here just chaos and salt.Another one that is best to come early, ideally with someone who actually speaks a bit of Putong Hua
How to get there: Head west toward Shiluokou Beach (石螺口海滩). Follow the scent of diesel and fish guts to “Shiluokou Yugang (石螺口渔港).”
4. Shengtang Village Market (圣塘村市场)
One that got recommended to me hat while not exactly a seafood market did not disappoint from a street food point of view. Next to Shengtang Catholic Church (圣塘天主教堂), which gives the area its iconic look. This is much more traditional Chinese street food stalls and is pushed as being much more of a traditional vibe, with Shengtang also offering cultural sites.
How to get there: Go to Shengtang Village (圣塘村), ask for the church (天主教堂), then poke around the alleys nearby. Ask locals for “Shengtang Cun Shichang (圣塘村市场)” — they’ll point you there.
And the fish?
Weizhou Island’s seafood markets are a true feast for the senses, with an incredible range of options that go way beyond your average fish and shrimp. Yes, you’ll find the usual suspects – plump tiger prawns, tender squid, and glistening fish – but the real fun begins when you start looking at the more unusual catches. Fancy something a bit more adventurous? How about sea snake, which is considered a delicacy on the island, or fresh crayfish that’s bursting with flavor? If you’re feeling bold, pick up some sea urchins – their roe is a prized treat that’s often served raw or lightly grilled.
The variety doesn’t stop there. There’s also giant clams, razor clams, and fish that look like they’ve come straight out of a sci-fi movie. Once you’ve selected your seafood, the magic happens. You can take it straight to one of the nearby restaurants or even your hotel, where they’ll cook it up for you to perfection. I grabbed half a kilo of shrimp and squid for just 70 RMB (10 USD), and getting them cooked at a good restaurant cost under 5 USD. And not only was it quite literally perfection, bit great value when you consider it was essentially “corkage”.
Is there fast food on Weizhou Island?
Weizhou Island isn’t exactly a fast-food haven, I mean there is not even a Dicos here, but there are places to head if you are hungover and need human food.
Burger King (汉堡王): Be careful as while you might see a Burger King sign (I swear I did) you will not actually find a restaurant. Maybe seasonal, or coming soon, but not here right now.
Lukin Coffee (鹿角巷咖啡): This obnoxious Chinese version of Starbucks is now the piece of crap you will see EVERYWHERE in China, proof here again as it is the only franchise on Weizhou. Really not worth the bother.
Fast Food Near the Catholic Church: Near the Shengtang Catholic Church (圣堂天主教堂), there’s a small burger joint called “Hamburger and Roast Chicken” exactly like every bad western rip-off I have ever been in China, so yes I loved it.
Keep in mind that Weizhou Island’s charm lies in its local eateries and seafood markets. While international fast-food options are limited, the island offers a unique culinary experience worth exploring.
Conclusion on Street Food Weizhou
Honestly I could just keep talking about food, drink and everything else on Weizhou, but as I already am planning guide and have written 1k plus words I will move on…
I can summarize by saying this place is one of the most unique I have ever been in China for both culinary and a travel perspectives and is best visited before the whole planet ends up coming. It is though not exactly Ibiza, but hey maybe that is why me in my 40’s loves it.
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